LONDON BEST BUDGET HOTELS

Kensington
easyHotel. Crammed into a big white town house are 34 tiny rooms, all with a double bed, private bathroom, and little else. Each is brightly decorated in the trademark orange-and-white of the Easy chain. The idea behind the hotel is to provide quality basics (bed, sink, shower, and toilet) for little money. The concept is a huge hit -- easyHotel is fully booked months in advance. Lexham Gardens. www.easyhotel.com. 34 rooms. Rooms range from £20--£40 per night.

Bayswater and Notting Hill
Colonnade. This lovely town house rests in a quiet, residential area known as "Little Venice." From the Freud suite (Sigmund visited regularly in 1938) to the rooms with four-poster beds or balconies, you'll find rich brocades, velvets, and antiques. It's a former home, so each room is different; some are split-level. Warrington Crescent. 15 rooms, 28 suites. Rooms range from £130--£215 per night.

Guesthouse West.
The goal of this hip hotel is to offer high-class chic at moderate prices. They almost get it right. The minimalist decor and technology -- cool black-and-white photos and flat-screen TVs -- are very stylish. Rooms, however, are truly tiny, and there's no room service. The restaurant is child-friendly and packed with locals, and the bar is a beautiful homage to the 1930s. The hotel's relationship with a local spa and restaurant provides guests with discounts. 163-165 Westbourne Grove. Rooms range from £150--£182 per night.

Bloomsbury, Holborn, and Islington
Alhambra Hotel. One of the best bargains in Bloomsbury, this family-run hotel has singles as low as £32 and doubles as low as £45. Rooms tend to be small and look dated, but they're definitely good value. Some rooms have a private shower but no toilet (you share one down the hall); others have both. All rooms have a TV, all guests have access to free Wi-Fi, and tea/coffeemakers are available on request. It's not fancy, but it certainly is cheap. 17-19 Argyle St. 52 rooms. Rooms range from £45-- £60 per night.

Tavistock Hotel.
This big, sprawling hotel off Russell Square makes for a convenient and affordable base to explore the British Museum and London's West End. The rooms are small and simply furnished, but clean and quiet with tea and coffemakers. The hotel itself has plenty of amenities, including a relaxed bar and restaurant. It's a bit old-fashioned, and won't win any style awards, but it's a solid option when money is an issue. Tavistock Square. 343 rooms. Rooms range from £60--£80 per night.

Mayfair, Marylebone, and St. James's
Bryanston. This family-run hotel, a few blocks north of Hyde Park and Park Lane, is an option for budget travelers who want to stay in this pricey area. The public rooms in its three converted Georgian houses are decorated in traditional English style: open fireplaces, leather armchairs, oil paintings. The bedrooms, on the other hand, are small and bland, with a faded pink color scheme, creaky floors, and tiny, old-fashioned bathrooms. In light of this, the prices could be cheaper. 56-60 Great Cumberland Pl. www.bryanstonhotel.com. 81 rooms, 8 apartments. Rooms start at £120 per night.

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EUROPE'S RISING STARS

Southern Italy
Never heard of Basilicata? We're not surprised. But if you saw Mel Gibson's The Passion of Christ it will certainly look familiar. An arid landscape dotted with ancient dwellings carved into solid rock allowed Basilicata to stand in for the Holy Land. Now it's a destination in its own right, and luckily it has more to offer vacationers than Jerusalem did two millennia ago. Several of our Fodorites' favorite Italian towns are in the area, including San Chirico and Matera. The last of these boasts a sprawling UNESCO World Heritage Site which served as a primary movie location. Staying there is easy. You can rock on at the Sassi cave hotel for €65. Getting there, on the other hand, requires effort. You'll have to drive in or arrive by train using the regional Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane line. The closest air link is 40 miles away in Bari.

Bologna, Italy
Italian cities once treated as stopovers are finally getting their star billing. Bologna is a case in point. It's the capital of Emilia-Romagna, the region that gave us Parma ham, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, and balsamic vinegar. Moreover, Bologna itself is the "birthplace" of tortellini, tagliatelle, mortadella and ragu alla Bolognese. From stand-up stalls to upscale restaurants, there is no shortage of places to sample these specialties. But if you hope to share the city's culinary bounty without sharing its nickname ("Bologna the Fat"), it might be wise to work off some calories by power-walking around historic Piazza Maggiore or climbing the 498 steps of Torre degli Asinelli, one of the city's two leaning towers (take that Pisa!). Need another reason to visit? Bologna's nifty wine bars are less pricey than those in Florence. Looking for equally nifty lodgings? Book a room at the visually gratifying Art Hotel Novecento. Eurofly offers affordable flights from New York May through October. True bargain hunters can also grab no-frills flights originating in various European hubs year round.

Budapest, Hungary
With its decade-long restoration of historical buildings now complete, Budapest has never looked better. History runs deep here, whether you're talking about the 3000-seat Great Synagogue, the Royal Palace, Heroes Square (photo right) or St. Stephen's Basilica, where you can climb 364 stairs to the top to get a stunning view of the city. New to the city's cultural scene is the Holocaust Museum, which has fast become one of the world's most moving memorials to that 20th-century cataclysm. Pleasure-seekers should check out Margaret Island. Once King Imre's ruling base in the 12th and 13th centuries, it now encompasses a park and pool complex where locals head for sunbathing, jogging, and relaxing. Malev, Hungary's national air carrier, frequently has great low fares to Budapest from New York and most European cities.

Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon is a place of distinctly Portuguese charms -- a refreshingly authentic and affordable city in an increasingly homogenous and expensive world. Pastel houses line ages-old stepped alleys, black-and-white mosaic sidewalks border boulevards, and azulejo masterpieces adorn art-nouveau buildings. Learn more about the national art form at the Museu Nacional de Azulejo. Explore classic Portuguese paintings and colonial riches at the Museu de Art Antiga, and consider staying down the street at As Janelas Verdes, a reasonably priced inn in an 18th-century town house. Spend an afternoon shopping in trendy Barrio Alto, building a unique wardrobe with pieces from some of the city's well-established, local, and often very accessible designers. Dinner at Pap' Acorda is a chance to try cutting-edge versions of Portuguese classics, including the rich seafood stew. Cap everything off with an evening of soulful, swelling music at Adega do Machado, one of the country's oldest fado clubs.

Liverpool, England
The culturati may have experienced a collective twitch upon learning that the European Union selected Liverpool, the gritty, Beatles-besotted city in England's Northwest, to be Capital of Culture for 2008. But after polishing its cultural assets and historic waterfront and lining up events (including a concert by Paul McCartney), Liverpool is ready for its close up. At the Albert Dock, learn about the city's past at the Merseyside Maritime and its newfound artistic clout at the innovative Tate Liverpool, Britain's largest modern art gallery outside London. Pair the Tate with a visit to the Walker Art Gallery, a Victorian treasure house stuffed with paintings by the Pre-Raphaelites. For that Beatles fix, the Beatles Story delivers re-created scenes of the Fab Four's glory, and the august National Trust administers Mendips and 20 Forthlin Road, the boyhood homes of John Lennon and Paul McCartney. Liverpool's waterfront Malmaison Hotel is the place to stay, or check if the ballyhooed but delayed Beatles-themed Hard Day's Night Hotel opens in February. Liverpool is two-and-a-half hours from London by train, or you can fly into nearby Manchester Airport; there's some direct service to Manchester from the U.S.

Montenegro
For years this gem on the Adriatic Sea has avoided publicity, which explains the almost 45 miles of pristine and undiscovered beaches along the Budva Riviera. But there's more to Montenegro than sun and sand. History and luxury snuggle up in preserved Medieval cities like Sveti Stefan. Nature freaks can get their fix driving along the road to the Bay of Kotor, which boasts splendid views from the high cliffs surrounding the bay, and Skadar Lake is the largest lake in the Balkans and one of the most beautiful natural attractions in Montenegro. When in Budva, hang your hat at Villa Montenegro, the hotel of choice for high-ranking politicians, industrialists, and European movie stars. The marble and granite villa has a dozen well-appointed rooms and is perfectly situated on the coast overlooking the sea.

Munich, Germany
Bavaria's capital has long been overshadowed by its bigger, cooler sister, Berlin. But in 2008 it is Munich's turn to shine. The city, which turns 850 this year, has always worn its age well: witness the medieval Alter Hof, the gothic Frauenkirche, or the baroque Nymphenburg Palace. Now, in honor of its birthday, Munich is polishing up other architectural gems, namely the City Museum and Cuvilliés Theatre. (The latter, appropriately, raises the curtain this June with a performance of Mozart's Idomeneo, an opera that had its premiere at the Cuvilliés in 1781.) As if that wasn't enough, the city is looking ahead as well. The futuristic BMW Museum and a new building to house the Brandhorst Collection of contemporary art are slated for spring and fall openings respectively. Worried that taking all this in will leave you exhausted? Put your fears to rest. Weary travelers can bed down in five-star luxury at Rocco Forte's Charles Hotel, near the botanical gardens, which began welcoming guests in October. Weekend package rates start at €375 for a double room.

Oslo, Norway
You might not expect to see the words "Oslo" and "hot" used in the same sentence. After all, even in summer average temperatures here only hover around 60 degrees F. But, metaphorically at least, this place is smokin'. Fueled by money made from North Sea oil, Oslo is in the midst of a building and renovation frenzy. Recent years have seen the opening of the Nobel Peace Center, a museum-like venue that Al Gore visited when he was in town picking up his Peace Prize; and the Holocaust Center, which houses haunting multi-media exhibits. The icing on the cake is the $700-million harborfront Opera House, opening April 12. Designed, like the Sydney Opera House, to be instantly iconic, it features ambitious angles and a roof that doubles as a recreational space. Design aficionados can follow up an evening at the opera with a night at the stylish new Grims Grenka Hotel, where rooms start at €270. Considering Oslo is one of the world's priciest cities, that's a deal. You can sometimes snag transatlantic deals on flights offered by Icelandair.

Ljubljana, Slovenia
Rare is the place that offers something for every traveler, but Slovenia is one such place. The Julian Alps in the north attract skiers and hikers while a sliver of the country along the Adriatic is a magnet for beachcombers and sun worshippers. The capital, Ljubljana, is a history maven's delight, and a terrific base for exploring the richness of the region. Culture buffs can get a bead on medieval history at the 12th-century Cistercian Monastery, in Sticna, while oenophiles can indulge their sensibilities along the Posaveje Wine Trail, which weaves its way along 20,000 acres of vineyards. The Rogla Ski Resort, in the Pohorje mountain range, is all about the snow in winter, but in summer its waterfalls, forests and lakes are enchanting. Wizz Air offers regular flights from Brussels. Photo: Franciscan Church in Ljubljana.

Zagreb, Croatia
Croatia's capital has shrugged off the cloak of the war-torn 1990s to reveal a city of inexhaustible charm. Indeed, the shops and boutiques rival those of Paris and Milan, the architecture is sophisticated, the cafe culture is lively, and, lo and behold, Zagrebians can toss back pints like British footballers. The city emerged from the war with remarkably little permanent damage, as anyone can see when walking through Jelacic Square, where friends convene at cafes to drink the fine local coffee and watch passersby. From the square, it's a short walk to catch a funicular to Upper Town, filled with relics of the past -- cathedrals, fortifications, cobblestone streets -- and contemporary trappings like Mestrovic Atelier, where Croatian Sculptor Ivan Mestrovic lived and worked from 1924 to 1942. If you come, pick up a Zagreb Card (it costs 90 kunas, or $18, and is good for 72 hours) at a tourist info center or at your hotel. The card offers visitors unlimited public transport and discounts at almost all museums and many restaurants and shops. Low-cost carrier Wizz Air has flights to Zagreb from London's Luton Airport.

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NILE RIVER CRUISE 2008 - 5 DAYS

Day 2 Luxor.
Visit the Luxor West Bank to see the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's Temple and the ruined Colossi of Memnon. Returning to your ship, cruise to Edfu. (B L D)

Day 3 Edfu / Kom Ombo
. A ride through the town of Edfu brings you to the splendid Temple of Horus. Then continue sailing to Kom Ombo for a visit to the twin hilltop Ptolemaic Temples of Horus the Falcon God and Sobek the Crocodile God. (B L D)

Day 4 Aswan.
This morning, visit the Aswan High Dam, the Unfinished Obelisk and Philae Temple. In the afternoon, a felucca (boat) ride takes you around Kitchner Island. (B L D)

Day 5 Depart Aswan
. Disembark after breakfast for independent departures. Alternatively, you may want to join an optional excursion to Abu Simbel. (B)

Starting
Price *
#T54344 May 1, '08 Call $385
#T35917 May 3, '08 Call $385
#T37471 May 8, '08 Call $385
#T13188 May 10, '08 Call $385
#T95304 May 15, '08 Call $385
#T48152 May 17, '08 Call $385
#T56342 May 22, '08 Call $385
#T81789 May 24, '08 Call $385
#T76300 May 29, '08 Call $385
#T77513 May 31, '08 Call $385
#T87708 Jun 5, '08 Call $385
#T82913 Jun 7, '08 Call $385
#T64147 Jun 12, '08 Call $385
#T66965 Jun 14, '08 Call $385
#T16703 Jun 19, '08 Call $385
#T83870 Jun 21, '08 Call $385
#T22135 Jun 26, '08 Call $385
#T73186 Jun 28, '08 Call $385
#T65122 Jul 3, '08 Call $385
#T27191 Jul 5, '08 Call $385
#T99566 Jul 10, '08 Call $385
#T77059 Jul 12, '08 Call $385
#T46795 Jul 17, '08 Call $385
#T95407 Jul 19, '08 Call $385
#T30677 Jul 24, '08 Call $385
#T77363 Jul 26, '08 Call $385

For reservations call 408.813.1111 ... ask for Judy

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3 NIGHT AIR & HOTEL FROM $173 - PLANET HOLLYWOOD RESORT & CASINO, LAS VEGAS

LUXURY AT 50% OFF IN A 17TH CENTURY CONVENT - SOFITEL SANTA CLARA, CARTAGENA DE INDIA, COLOMBIA

FREE THINGS TO DO IN LONDON

1. See the Changing of the Guard at Horse Guards Parade, Whitehall. People line up outside Buckingham Palace but cognoscenti cut through St. James's Park to Horse Guards for a better show. Trumpets, stallions, officers in polished brass breastplates and helmets -- it's a right royal do 11 a.m. daily and 10 a.m. Sundays.

2. Harrods Food Hall is retail theatre. So what if it's a must-do on the tourist trail? There is simply nothing else like it. Take in the opulent displays and the art nouveau décor -- tiles, brass, etched, stained and Tiffany glass displays -- without spending anything. Predictably, most people buy a tin of souvenir tea but you can also nosh on sushi or Crispy Creme donuts.

3. Fly a kite in Richmond Park. It was a Tudor deer park and it's still home to the Queen's herds of red and fallow deer. The rolling hills, woodlands, and open meadows are just an Underground ride away from the West End. In the spring, one of the world's best collections of azaleas and gigantic rhododendrons burst into bloom in the Isabella Plantation, at the center of the park. And just outside, the park gates, you can gaze at the view from Richmond Hill.

4. Watch street theatre where it was invented. St. Paul's Covent Garden, designed by Inigo Jones, is known as The Actors' Church, because of its connection with London's theatrical community. In May 1662, diarist Samuel Pepys, best known for his reports of the Great Fire of London, recorded the performance of an "Italian puppet play" on the church portico. It was, in fact, the first Punch & Judy show. London's best licensed "buskers" still perform on the portico and the piazza in front of it.

5. Take in a free concert. Well-known jazz, classical, and world-music artists perform Saturdays in the National Theatre foyer, on the South Bank, around lunchtime and before theatre performances. A few doors down, in the foyer of Queen Elizabeth Hall, there are free lunchtime performances and "Commuter Jazz" most Friday afternoons at 5:15. You can also hear free lunchtime concerts of classical music most days at St. Paul's Cathedral, St. Martin's in the Field, and St. James's Church.

6. Cross a few bridges. Stroll south across Waterloo Bridge at dusk for a quintessentially London view -- Parliament and Big Ben on your right, Somerset House, St. Paul's and the newer glass and steel towers of the City on your left and the floodlit South Bank Centre directly ahead. Turn left and continue Thames side to Sir Norman Foster's pedestrian Millennium Bridge. Look back over your shoulder for the best view of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

7. London has some of the finest parks in the world, and enjoying them won't cost you a pence. Keen ornithologists can join free bird-watching walks in Hyde Park, while dedicated strollers touched by royal nostalgia can take the 7-mile Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Walk through Hyde, Green, and St. James's Parks.

8. Rub shoulders with the hoi polloi at Berwick Street Market in Soho, an old-fashioned food market in the heart of London's media and entertainment district. There is no better place to watch the London demimonde -- actors, media moguls, and advertising executives, art students, office workers, exotic dancers and members of the world's oldest profession -- mingle over punnets of strawberries and trays of wet fish.

9. Museum hop. You can get nose to nose with the Rosetta Stone at the British Museum, enjoy 2000 years of glass making at the Victoria and Albert, check out five centuries of interior design at the Geffrye, or cower among the dinosaurs at the Natural History Museum. All of London's major museums are free every day.

10. Pretend you're Mrs. Moneybags and do the gallery circuit on Cork Street. This short Mayfair avenue is lined with some of the savviest and most welcoming contemporary art dealers in London. Show enough interest and you might even be offered a glass of wine.

ALMOST FREE THINGS TO DO IN LONDON

2. Be a groundling at the Globe. In Elizabethan times, the mob joined the gentry at Shakespeare's plays, milling about on the floor of the Globe while the upper classes sat in the covered seats. For £5 you can be a "groundling" during performances, rain or shine, during the Globe's annual season, May through October.

3. Want to go to the opera? If you can't nab a seat at the English National opera, the company sells standing-room tickets for the back of the Dress and Upper Circles at £5 each. Standing-room tickets with obstructed views for the ballet or opera at Royal Opera House in Covent Garden start at £4. Check box offices for details.

4. Take a ride into the future. A trip on the Docklands Light Railway, London's newest public transportation system winds, above ground through the Docklands and some of London's newest cityscapes. The "space age" stations match the mid-21st century look of the architecture, and all for the price of a Tube ticket.

5. Get a river view. Instead of paying top prices for the tour boats that ply the Thames, hop on one of London's commuter boats for a completely different perspective. Schedules and lists of London piers are available at most Tube stations, or online. Fares start at £2.70.

3 NIGHT AIR & HOTEL VACATIONS FROM $173 PER PERSON PER NIGHT - PLANET HOLLYWOOD RESORT & CASINO, LAS VEGAS

LUXURY AT 50% OFF IN A 17TH CENTURY CONVENT - SOFITEL SANTA CLARA, CARTAGENA DE INDIA, COLOMBIA

FROM $39.95 PER NIGHT ON INTERNATIONAL DRIVE - QUALITY INN PLAZA, ORLANDO, FLORIDA

FREE THINGS TO DO IN PARIS

Splendor in the Grass:
In a city of apartment dwellers, Paris' many great gardens serve as a backyard for countless families. No surprise that they're also heaven for tourists. Some of our favorites are Jardin des Tuileries and, across the Seine, Jardin du Luxembourg, Jardin du Carrousel (next to the Tuileries), Place des Vosges, Jardin du Palais Royal, and Parc du Champ de Mars.

Join the Work Force:
There's something strangely appealing about watching other people doing their jobs while you're on vacation. Old-fashioned "open houses" coupled with innovative new programs like Meet the Parisians at Work lets you see a butcher, a baker, a candlestick maker, and even a diamond cutter in action.

Indulge in Hero Worship:
Looking for a novel excursion? Book lovers can tour the memorabilia-filled homes of Honoré de Balzac (at 47 Rue Raynouard) and Victor Hugo (on the elegant Place des Vosges). Meanwhile, scientific types can make a pilgrimage to the Left Bank laboratory where Marie Curie worked from 1914 until her death in 1934. Musée Curie's meticulously restored rooms contain original furnishings, instruments, and the three Nobel prizes won by the Curie clan.

See the Light:
To see why Paris is called the "City of Light," just stroll after dark when its star attractions are illuminated like Christmas trees. The pièce de résistance is the Eiffel Tower, festooned with 800 strings of dazzling white lights. For the full effect, arrive on the hour so you can watch its 20,000 individual bulbs sparkle in a 10-minute display. Like to learn more about the tower? Click here to download free audio guides for it and six other sites.

Pay Your Respects:
Pére-Lachaise Cemetery is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon -- or eternity. Since 1804 this cemetery in the 20th arrondissement has served as the final resting place for a "who's who" of cultural icons. Chopin, Colette, Molière, Modigliani: they all lie here beneath 118 acres of rolling terrain. So do Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan, Georges Seurat, Sarah Bernhardt, Gertrude Stein, and Jim Morrison. Plot your route by taking a virtual tour.

Catch the Spirit:
Though you may have to pay to ascend towers or descend into crypts in some of Paris' great cathedrals, it doesn't cost anything to enter most sanctuaries. And some of the big-name places offer attractive extras. Notre Dame, for instance, pulls out the stops -- literally -- with free Sunday afternoon organ recitals and thrice-weekly English-language tours. Not to be outdone, Sacré-Coeur invites visitors to attend hour-long choir rehearsals Sunday mornings at 9:45.

Roll Merrily Along:
Weekly in-line skating events have become phenomenally popular in Paris. A Sunday skate hosted by Rollers & Coquillages covers a traffic-free 12-mile route, and gets rolling at 2:30 p.m. near Place de la Bastille. A more extreme 18-mile version gets underway Friday nights. Of course, if your boots are made for walking, it would be wiser to join the rando-panameurs for one of their free monthly hikes.

Lick a Few Windows:
Lèche-vitrines (or "window licking" in English) is the equivalent of "window shopping," and those tony Parisians have elevated it to an art form. The best places for a taste test are along Avenue Montaigne and Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, where trés chic retailers have set up shop. (Under "C" alone you'll find Cartier, Chanel, Chloe, Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix). Can you say "ooh la la?"

Dance the Night Away:
It costs a small fortune to watch Can-Can girls kick up their heels at Moulin Rouge. But there are plenty of places where you can practice your own moves -- and perhaps get a lesson or two -- at no cost. For starters, head to the plein air dance floor (open every evening, weather permitting, May to September) on Quai Saint-Bernard. Whether you're ready for your last tango in Paris or your first gavotte, the Tourism Board can point you in the right direction.

Go to a Museum:
Don't yawn. Paris has some of the world's most exciting museums, and many of them are free. That means you can brush up on civic history at Musée Carnavalet (a 16th-century mansion housing everything from Neolithic canoes to Napoleon's cradle), check out art and artifacts at Musée Cognacq-Jay, and learn about fabled French perfume at Musée Fragonard, all without spending a single euro. The big kahuna, the Louvre, is free for folks under 18, and free for everyone one Sunday a month.

$49.95 PER NIGHT INCLUDES CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST - LA QUINTA ORLANDO/WINTER PARK ORLANDO, FLORIDA

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BEST BEACHES IN THE CARIBBEAN

Baie Orientale
St. Martin
Many consider this the best beach on the island, but it might also be the most popular. The conservative north end is more family-oriented while the liberal south end is clothing-optional. To get to Baie Orientale from Marigot, take National Road 7 past Grand Case, past the Aéroport de L'Espérance toward the Atlantic side of the island.

Balneario de Luquillo
Puerto Rico
A magnet for families, this government-maintained beach is well equipped with changing areas and restrooms, lifeguards, food stands, and picnic areas, and even stands where you can order a cocktail. It's most distinctive facility, though, is the Mar Sin Barreras (Sea Without Barriers), a low-sloped ramp leading into the water that allows wheelchair users to take a dip. The beach is off Route 3 as you head toward Fajardo.

Eagle Beach
Aruba
On the southwestern coast, across the highway from what is quickly becoming known as Time-Share Lane, is one of the Caribbean's -- if not the world's -- best beaches. Not long ago it was a nearly deserted stretch of pristine sand dotted with the occasional thatched picnic hut. Now that the resorts are completed, this mile-plus-long beach is always hopping.

Negril Beach
Negril, Jamaica
This is arguably Jamaica's finest beach. It starts with the white sands of Bloody Bay north of town and continues along Long Bay all the way to the cliffs on the southern edge of town. Along the main stretch of beach, the sand is public to the high-water mark, so a nonstop line of visitors and vendors parade from end to end. The walk is sprinkled with many good beach bars and open-air restaurants.

Pink Beach
Barbuda
This nearly deserted stretch of beach reaches from Spanish Point to Palmetto Point: you can sometimes walk miles without encountering another footprint. This classic strand is champagne-hued and with sand soft as silk. The only signs of life are Barbuda's three posh resorts, of which only the Beach House really offers meals (Barbudan lobster is a must), drinks, and chairs.

Playa Bahoruco
Dominican Republic
This isolated, gorgeous stretch of virgin beach goes on for miles in either direction, with rugged cliffs dropping to golden sand and warm, blue water. It's the ideal wild, undeveloped Caribbean beach, but many sections are pebbly, so you need surf shoes for swimming. Just a little to the south, on the stretch of beach called San Rafael, are beach shacks where you can buy meals of fresh fish.

Playa Flamenco
Puerto Rico
On Culebra's north coast is an amazingly lovely stretch of white sand. This beach, with its almost perfect half-moon shape, is consistently ranked as one of the two or three best in the world. Once you see it, you'll know why. Mountains rise up on all sides, making it feel miles away from civilization. It's only when the propeller planes fly low over the beach that you remember the airport is just over the ridge.

Playa Sun Bay
Puerto Rico
East of Esperanza this is easily the most popular of the dozens of beaches that ring Vieques. Of Vieques's more than three dozen beaches, on Route 997 is one of the most popular. Its white sands skirt a mile-long, crescent-shape bay. You'll find food kiosks, picnic tables, and changing facilities. On weekdays, when the crowds are thin, you might also find wild horses grazing among the palm trees.

Seven Mile Beach
Grand Cayman
Grand Cayman's west coast is dominated by the famous Seven Mile Beach---actually a 5 1/2-mile-long (9-km-long) expanse of powdery white sand. The width of the beach varies with the season; toward the south end it narrows and disappears altogether, leaving only rock and ironshore. Free of litter and peddlers, it's an unspoiled (though sometimes crowded) environment.

Shoal Bay
Anguilla
Anchored by coconut trees and covered in the most exquisite powdery-white coral sand, Shoal Bay -- not to be confused with Shoal Bay West at the other end of the island -- is one of the Caribbean's prettiest beaches. Restaurants like Gwen's Reggae Grill, Kú, and Madeariman Beach Club offer seafood and tropical drinks; shops sell T-shirts and sunscreen. You can even enjoy a beachside massage. The quieter east end has excellent snorkeling.

Treasure Beach
Jamaica
The most atmospheric beach in the southwest is in the community of Treasure Beach. It comprises four long stretches of sand as well as many small coves, and though it isn't as pretty as those to the west or north -- it has more rocks and darker sand -- the idea that you might be discovering a bit of the "real" Jamaica more than makes up for the small negatives.

BEST CARIBBEAN HOTELS

Anse Chastenet Beach Hotel
St. Lucia
Magical. Spectacular rooms and suites, some with entire walls open to stunning vistas, peek through the thick rain forest that cascades down to the sea. Deluxe hillside rooms have a balcony, tile floors, madras fabrics, handmade wooden furniture, and impressive artwork.

Auberge Seraphine
St. Lucia
This is a good choice for vacationers who don't require a beachfront location. All but six rooms have a water view, and Room 307 has an amazing view from its balcony: what look like huge snow-white flowers are really cattle egrets nesting in the almond tree right outside the window; beautiful flowers bloom twice monthly in the lily pond down below. A broad, tiled sundeck, the center of activity, surrounds a small pool.

Blue Haven Hotel
Tobago
This 1940s-era hotel overlooks a spectacular secluded beach on Bacolet Bay just outside Scarborough. Though long neglected, it has been brought back to life by Austrian Karl Pilstl and his wife. Rooms have teak floors and glass-partitioned bathrooms (with curtains for private moments); four-poster beds and lavish beddings are standard. Rooms in a new wing have sunken sitting areas. Most activity takes place at the No Problem beach bar, where a barbecue always seems to be in progress.

Bravo Beach Hotel
Puerto Rico
If this boutique hotel were plopped down into the middle of South Beach, no one would raise an eyebrow. What was once a private residence has been expanded to include four different buildings, all with views of nearby Culebra from their balconies. The guest rooms have a minimalist flair, brightened by splashes of red and yellow. Hi-tech offerings include a Sony Playstation in every room. There's a chic lounge called Palms, and the hotel sits on a pretty stretch of beach, several blocks north of the ferry dock in Isabel Segunda. www.bravobeachhotel.com. $$

Bucuti Beach Resort
Aruba
An extraordinary beach setting, impeccably understated service, and attention to detail help this elegant resort easily outclass anything else on the island. Rooms are done in cool creams and feature cherrywood furnishings; there's a distinctly modern and European feel to the entire place. For a splurge, the new Tara Wing offers chic, upscale one-bedroom suites.

Coral Reef Club
Barbados
Spend your days relaxing on the white-sand beach or around a pool, taking time out for afternoon tea. Individually designed and beautifully decorated suites rest in pristine coral-stone manses and cottages scattered over 12.5acres of flower-filled gardens. Garden rooms suit one or two guests and have a small patio or balcony, while junior suites with sitting areas and larger patios or balconies are perfect for families.

Couples Swept Away Negril
Jamaica
Sports-minded adults (including same-sex couples and singles, unlike at other Couples locations) are welcomed to this all-suites resort known for its expansive menu of sports offerings, top-notch facilities, and emphasis on healthy cuisine. If you're looking for an active vacation sprinkled with romance, it's your best option in Negril. The suites are in 26 two-story tropical villas -- each with a private garden atrium -- spread out along a lengthy stretch of gorgeous beach.

Curacao Marriott Beach Resort & Emerald Casino
Curacao
The cream of the crop of the island's resorts beckons you to live it up from the moment you arrive. The grand open-air lobby ushers you into a wonderland enlivened by a crescent beach that hugs the resort's edge. guest rooms, which are attractively outfitted, all have balconies or patios. Indulge in holistic treatments at the spa, frolic at the swim-up bar, or try your luck at the alluring -- albeit small -- casino. www.marriott.com

Eden Roc
St. Barths
Top drawer all the way. Each of the hotel's 29 unique rooms, suites, and villas is tastefully decorated and luxuriously appointed with plasma satellite TV and high-speed Internet. New, large bathrooms have either deep soaking tubs or walk-in showers. The six beachfront villas built on the former Filao Beach property are magnificent and sleep up to four, with full kitchens and beautifully appointed modern living areas.

Grand Lido
Negril, Jamaica
All the fancy and slightly stuffy touches here are balanced by an expansive nude beach (including its own hot tub, bar, and grill). The non-nude beach is one of the best strips of sand in Negril. Appealing to an upscale crowd of all stripes, the mood here is quiet and relaxing -- much different than at Hedonism II, which is just next door. Low-rise rooms, both oceanfront and garden suites, are stylish; many offer French doors just steps from the sand.

Horned Dorset Primavera
Puerto Rico
This hidden luxury hotel is designed for honeymooners of any age, and is the most romantic retreat in Puerto Rico. Each of the secluded rooms opens directly onto the oceanfront and is elegantly furnished with antiques and four-poster beds. You may never want to leave. To disconnect you from the outside world, the hotel has no radios, TVs, or phones in the rooms; nor are there any facilities for children. The atmosphere is decidedly serene.

Hôtel St-Barth Isle de France
St. Barths
It's not hard to understand why the property boasts a 72% high-season return rate, because it gets better each season. A general technology upgrade includes a reception-area computer for guests and a broadband connection for your laptop in all rooms. Huge rooms furnished with modern four-posters, French fabrics, and fine art have superb marble baths (all with a tub or Jacuzzi tub, both rare on the island).

Ladera
St. Lucia
The elegantly rustic Ladera is perched 1,000 feet above the sea, high in the rain forest between the Pitons. Each unique suite or villa is furnished with colonial antiques and local crafts and has an open wall with a dazzling view overlooking the private plunge pool -- some with a waterfall. Cooling breezes really do preclude the need for air-conditioning. The Ti Kai Posè Spa (Creole for "Little House of Rest") offers relaxing and therapeutic treatments and beauty services.

Meridian Club
Pine Cay, Turks & Caicos
The charm of this resort, built in the 1970s, is that it never changes. The simple beachfront cottages, most of the staff, and what is perhaps the world's smallest airport, have all stayed pretty much the same for years. The 2.5-mile stretch of beach is deserted, and instead of roads you can find nature trails and sun-dappled paths that crisscross the island, which can be explored by bike or on foot.

Normandie Hotel
Puerto Rico
One of the Caribbean's finest examples of art deco architecture, this hotel -- shaped like a ship -- has been host to high-society types since it opened in the 1930s. After a stem-to-stern renovation, it's ready to sail again. Guest rooms, many of them as big as suites, are decorated in sensuous shades of cream and oatmeal. Business travelers will appreciate the huge desks outfitted with broadband access. Those in search of relaxation need look no farther than the sparkling pool or compact spa. www.normandiepr.com.

Peach & Quiet
Barbados
This small seaside inn on the southeast coast is the sweetest deal we've found on the island. With no in-room noisemakers and no children around, the only sounds you will hear are the gentle surf and your own conversations. Decor in the spacious suites, arranged in whitewashed Mykonos-inspired buildings, is elegantly spare. Each has a large terrace or balcony and a stocked bookshelf; bathrooms have showers only.

PuntaCana Resort & Club
Dominican Republic
The food has never tasted so good and the service never so slick. (If you saw service weaknesses on a previous visit, you can come back safely now.) Specialty restaurants have been redecorated and are looking chic. La Choza, the beach restaurant, has been upgraded and can now host weddings: the new lookout tower is where you might spot winter whales. A Six Senses Spa housed in the gorgeous beach-golf club is open.

Rockhouse Hotel
Jamaica
Rockhouse delivers both resort comforts and funky style. Rooms and suites are built from rough-hewn timber, thatch, and stone and filled with furniture that echoes the nature theme. Although double the price of a regular room, villas, which have outdoor showers and private sundecks above the cliffs, are worth the splurge.

Sandals Grande St. Lucian Spa & Resort
St. Lucia
Couples love this place. Perched on the narrow Pigeon Island Causeway at St. Lucia's northern tip, Sandals Grande offers panoramic views of Rodney Bay on one side and the Atlantic on the other. Luxurious rooms, decorated with colorful fabrics and mahogany furniture, all have king-size beds; 24 lagoon-side rooms have swim-up verandas. With a plethora of land and water sports, a European-style full-service spa, five excellent restaurants, nightly entertainment, and romance in the air, there's never a dull moment.

Turtle Nest Inn
Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands
This affordable, intimate seaside inn has roomy one-bedroom apartments and a pool overlooking a narrow beach with good snorkeling. Views that once included lush foliage now oversee (temporarily) a broken village. The closest grocery store is about 25 minutes away, so rent a car.

Victorian House
Dominican Republic
Check-in is at a white-pillared cottage. There, multilingual concierges pamper independent travelers; at 5 each afternoon you get luscious hors d'oeuvres and fresh mimosas. Beds have dreamy new mattresses, European duvets, and six down pillows. Terraces have teak chaises and ever-changing knockout views. You really can't beat the place for service and accommodations.

Windmills Plantation
Salt Cay, Turks & Caicos
Arched balconies frame the perfect north-shore beach views in this outstanding small luxury hotel. Wooden decking winds through an eclectic plantation-inspired arrangement of colorful buildings that hide a delightful mix of atmospheric, romantic hideaways complete with dark wooden beams, four-poster beds, and original art.

Book your hotel online and save up to 70%.... go to "Hotels & Resorts"

THE BEST CARIBEAN DINNING SPOTS

Bistro Le Clochard
Curacao
Built into the 19th-century Riffort, this romantic gem now anchors the entrance to the 21st-century Riffort Village complex, the waterside terrace offering an enchanting view of the floating bridge and harbor. Swiss and French are the key influences in the sublime preparations; the chicken in curry sauce with exotic fruit is divine. The signature dish is La Potence, a swinging, red-hot metal ball covered with bits of sizzling tenderloin and sausage, served with various dipping sauces. www.bistroleclochard.com.

Blanchard's
Anguilla
This absolutely delightful restaurant is considered one of the best in the Caribbean, if not the world. Proprietors Bob and Melinda Blanchard moved to Anguilla from Vermont in 1994 to fulfill their culinary dreams. A festive atmosphere pervades the handsome, airy white room, which is accented with floor-to-ceiling teal-blue shutters to let in the breezes. The contemporary menu is ever-changing but always delightful; house classics like corn chowder, lobster cakes, and a Caribbean fish sampler are crowd pleasers.

Chez Pascal
Antigua
Pascal and Florence Milliat built this hilltop charmer with their own hands, and it begs comparison with any bistro in the French West Indies. The flagstone terrace overlooks a tinkling fountain and lighted pool; the tasteful, elevated dining room is furnished in dark rattan, with ceramics, and copper pots. Pascal's classic Lyonnaise cuisine exhibits his remarkably deft hand with subtle, silken sauces. Try the gossamer chicken-liver mousse in thyme sauce, practically translucent and transcendent scallops with leeks, or the sublime steamed grouper in beurre blanc.

Evita's Italian Restaurant
Jamaica
Just about every celebrity who has visited Ocho Rios has dined at this hilltop restaurant, and Evita has the pictures to prove it. Guests feel like stars themselves, with attentive waitstaff helping to guide them through a list of about 30 kinds of pasta, ranging from lasagna Rastafari (vegetarian) and fiery jerk spaghetti to rotelle colombo (crabmeat with white sauce and noodles). Kids under 12 eat for half-price, and light eaters will appreciate half portions.

Grand Old House
Grand Cayman
Classic European cuisine with a Caribbean influence is delicious (the potato-crusted tuna is my favorite), but it's the outdoor, romantic atmosphere that justifies the high prices here. The setting is the Petra Plantation House, which dates from 1908 and is a favorite for weddings. Sparkling lights adorn the covered, oceanside gazebos and spacious patio, or you can dine indoors, where a pianist provides the perfect music. The service is stellar and the wine list noteworthy (though wine prices are high).

KoalKeel
Anguilla
Originally part of a sugar and cotton plantation, KoalKeel is owned by descendants of the slaves once housed on this very site. With a day's notice, you can enjoy a whole chicken that has been slow-roasted from the inside. The menu features a combination of classic French and West Indian specialties. Start with goat cheese baked in puff pastry in a pool of honey vinaigrette; then continue with rack of lamb served with pumpkin gratin or veal chop in a rosemary sauce with caramelized shallots and truffled mashed potato. Be sure to save room for the incredible desserts made by pastry wizard Geraud Lavest, inventor of wonders like ginger streusel, a sweet cake with caramel and spiced roasted apricots.

La Belle Epoque
Martinique
In a wealthy suburb high above Fort-de-France, this antiques-filled dining room offers a truly fine-dining experience, from the professional service to the sparkling crystal stemware. The food is divine. The quality of meat is excellent, particularly the lamb and even such hard-to-find cuts as sweetbreads. Also, the menu has an entire page devoted to foie gras, including an incredibly delicious portion encrusted in blue poppy seeds with red vine-leaf caramel. The prix-fixe can help keep costs down; check the daily offering and its price.

Le Rainbow
St. Martin
You might be tempted to drift out with the sea breeze while sitting at one of the beachside tables and watching the waves. That would be a big mistake. The cuisine in this comfortable bistro includes mouthwatering shrimp and scallop duo de gambas with an island-style chutney. The attentive staff and friendly owners make the place even more inviting. There's a pipe-and-cigar bar upstairs.

Marandi
Aruba
With a name that means "on the water" in Malaysian, this seaside restaurant is at once cozy and chic. Everything is seductive, from the tables tucked under a giant thatched roof by the water's edge to the dining room that's unencumbered by a ceiling. There are even couches set in a sandbox where you can enjoy a cocktail before your meal. Reserve ahead, and you can dine at the chef's table, which is right in the kitchen.

Mark's at the Meliá
Puerto Rico
Hidden behind an etched-glass door, this discreet restaurant is one of the best on the island. Chef Mark French has won praise for his creative blend of European cooking techniques and local ingredients. That skill results in appetizers like terrine of foie gras with dried cherry compote and smoked salmon topped with caramelized mango. The menu changes often, but you're likely to see such entrées as plantain-crusted dorado and rack of lamb with a goat cheese crust.

Michael Rostang at Malliouhana
Anguilla
Sparkling crystal and fine china, exquisite service, a wonderful 25,000-bottle wine cellar, and a spectacularly romantic candlelit, open-air room complement exceptional haute cuisine. Consulting chef Michael Rostang, renowned for his exceptional Paris bistros, and chef Alain Laurent revamp the menu seasonally, brilliantly incorporating local ingredients in both classic and contemporary preparations. The ultimate in hedonism is sipping champagne as the setting sun triggers a laser show over the bay, before repairing to your table.

Montpelier Plantation Inn
Nevis
Owners Tim and Meredith Hoffman preside over a scintillating evening, starting with canapés and cocktails in the civilized Great Room. Dinner is served on the breezy west veranda, which gazes serenely upon the lights of Charlestown and St. Kitts. The inventive chef utilizes the inn's herb gardens and fruit trees and occasionally even hauls in the day's catch. The changing three-course menu might present lobster tail on black bean cake with scotch bonnet beurre blanc, seared swordfish in papaya--black bean salsa, and a proper herb-crusted rack of lamb in rosemary mustard jus.

Ocho Rios Village Jerk Centre
Jamaica
This blue-canopied, open-air eatery is a good place to park yourself for frosty Red Stripe beer and fiery jerk pork, chicken, or seafood. Milder barbecued meats, also sold by weight (typically, 1/4 or 1/2 pound makes a good serving), turn up on the fresh daily chalkboard menu posted on the wall. It's lively at lunch, especially when passengers from cruise ships swamp the place.

Rainforest Hideaway
St. Lucia
British chef Jim Verity presents fusion fare at this romantic fine-dining hideaway on the north shore of Marigot Bay. It's definitely worth the 20-minute-or-so drive from Castries. A little ferry whisks you to the alfresco restaurant, perched on a dock, where you're greeted with complimentary champagne. Choose fresh-caught fish, succulent steak or chops, or tenderly prepared shellfish for your dinner, and you'll be blown away by the rich sauces, exotic vegetables, and excellent wines.

Spaghettissimo
Dominican Republic
This former private residence, with pool and terrace seating, has been renovated with a sense of elegant, minimalist style. And, yes, it's still the well-loved restaurant owned by Frederic Gollong, but with a new image and address. The contemporary menu exhibits such eclectic influences as Thai and Japanese, with shellfish a specialty. Classics like lamb osso buco with Milanese risotto as well as arugula salad with walnuts, proscuitto, and Roquefort are also on the menu.

The Cliff
Barbados
Chef Paul Owens' mastery is the foundation of one of the finest dining experiences in the Caribbean, with prices to match. Starters include smoked salmon ravioli with garlic sauce or grilled portobello mushroom on greens with truffle vinaigrette; for the main course, try Caribbean shrimp with a Thai green-curry coconut sauce, veal chop with a mustard and tarragon sauce, or red snapper fillet on a baked potato cake. Dessert falls in the sinful category, and service is impeccable. A $75 prix-fixe menu is a good deal.

Veni Mangé
Trinidad
The best lunches in town are served upstairs in this traditional West Indian house. Credit Allyson Hennessy---a Cordon Bleu--trained chef and local television celebrity---and her friendly, flamboyant sister and partner, Rosemary (Roses) Hezekiah. Despite Allyson's training, home cooking is the order of the day here. The creative creole menu changes regularly, but there's always an unusual and delicious vegetarian entrée. Veni's version of Trinidad's national dish, callaloo, is considered one of the best on the island.

LAKE TAHOE CAMPING AND HIKING

Hiking
There are five national forests in the Tahoe Basin and a half dozen state parks. The main areas for hiking include the Tahoe Rim Trail, a 165-mi path along the ridgelines that now completely rings the lake; Desolation Wilderness, a vast 63,473-acre preserve of granite peaks, glacial valleys, subalpine forests, the Rubicon River, and more than 50 lakes; and the trail systems in D. L. Bliss, Emerald Bay, Sugar Pine Point, and Lake Tahoe-Nevada state parks and near Lake Tahoe Visitor Center. The Pacific Crest Trail, a high-mountain foot trail connecting Mexico to Canada, runs along the Sierra Crest just west of the lake. To the south of Lake Tahoe sits the Mokelumne Wilderness, a whopping 100,848-acre preserve, one of several undeveloped tracts that extend toward Yosemite, which is accessible via the Tahoe-Yosemite Trail, a 186-mi trek.

CURACAO

Get Ready to Rumble
Starting in early January, street dances, parades and parties -- called "Jump-ups" -- get underway every weekend through the end of Carnival. The main parades, featuring fantastic floats and costumes, take place in February and early March. (Parade routes vary from year to year, so ask your hotel concierge about special seating for tourists.)

Curaçao, of course, offers much more than Carnival. The island culture is a vibrant mix of 50 cultures, including Arawak, Dutch, Spanish, West Indian, Latin, and African. Willemstad is the capital city. It's divided by the St. Annabaal channel into two parts -- Otrobanda is on the left, facing the ocean, and Punda is on the right.

Explore Punda to see the architecture that made the entire district a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and make sure to take a walk along the waterfront to see the brilliantly colored Dutch houses that grace many Curaçao postcards. Shopping opportunities (duty-free and local crafts) abound. At night, Punda is the place to be as locals and visitors relax in the many open-air bars and cafes.

Head over to Otrobanda by walking across the 700-foot-long Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge, billed as the world's-longest floating pedestrian bridge. Or take the free passenger ferry. Otrobanda's maze of twisting streets and alleyways house artists' studios, crafts workshops, charming stores and small restaurants. Also visit the scenic western part of the island (the Westpunt) and have lunch at Jaanchi's Restaurant (Westpunt 15; 5999/864-0126). Be brave and try the yuana stoba, otherwise known as stewed iguana. It sort of tastes like a mix of chicken and frog.

If your biggest ambition is to lie on the beach, Curaçao is the place to be. The rockiest beaches are on the southeast cost. The softer, white-sand beaches are on the west coast. Excellent diving has always been a draw in Curaçao, and a fair percentage of travelers are drawn by the teeming reefs and good shore-diving.

Curaçao is located in the southwestern Caribbean, about 35 miles north of Venezuela, a two-and-one-half hour flight from Miami. (Don't forget that as of January 23, 2008, all airline passengers traveling from Caribbean nations must have passports -- not state-issued photo ID -- in order to re-enter the USA.) The country is currently part of the Dutch Antilles, but will become autonomous next July. Throughout winter, daytime temperatures stay in the mid-80's, cooled by constant trade winds. Winter is the island's rainy season, but showers are typically short.

Hotel Packages
Habitat Curaçao Resort:
In celebration of its 10-Year Anniversary, Habitat Curaçao Resort won't increase rates for 2008. Guests can book seven nights at this diving/snorkeling paradise from December 23, 2007 through April 6, 2008 for $539 per person (double occupancy.) This package includes garden view accommodations, hotel taxes and gratuities, welcome drink, free use of fitness room, and complimentary daily daytime shuttle service to Willemstad, a 25-minute ride from the resort. For information or reservations, click "Hotels & Resorts" for 50% discounts..

Avila Hotel:

The luxurious beachside Avila Hotel, a five-minute walk from Willemstad, is offering one free night based on a minimum 7-night stay January 3 through December16, 2008. The offer is valid for rooms in the hotel's new Octagon Wing, which boasts 68 spacious rooms with flat-screen TVs, high-speed internet, and large, modern bathrooms. Top floor rooms have untrammeled views of the azure Caribbean sea. Room rates start at $250. For reservations or information, click "Hotels & Resorts" for 50% discounts.

The Art & Nature Inn Curaçao:
The Art & Nature Inn, created 35 years ago by the Dutch Artist Gerardine Kuijpers, consists of 12 self-contained apartments located in a residential neighborhood called Julianadorp, in the middle of the Island. The Inn's "Drive Inn" package, valid through December 14, 2008, includes seven nights in a standard- plus apartment for two guests, a compact car with AC including unlimited mileage, insurance and taxes, and an autographed limited edition print by Kuijpers for $899.00 per apartment for two guests. Click here for more information on our special discounts - "Hotels & Resorts".

Hotel Kura Hulanda Spa and Casino:
The only five-star properties in Curaçao -- Hotel Kura Hulanda Spa and Casino and the new Lodge Kura Hulanda and Beach Club, are offering a Winter Value Rate of $210 per room per night from January 5 through November 8, 2008. Click "Hotels & Resorts" for our special discounts of up to 50%.

Getting There:
Continental Airlines has a weekly, nonstop Saturday flight from Newark to Curaçao's Hato International Airport for $760 roundtrip. (Not exactly cheap, but you'll save three hours by avoiding the traditional Miami or San Juan layover.) American has daily flights through Miami from JFK starting at $588 roundtrip.

7 DAY BERMUDA CRUISE

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Sail Date: MAY 11 & 18

MOST ROMANTIC PLACES ON EARTH

San Francisco
San Francisco is a jewel of a city. The S.F. tourism bureau insists that it's the "most European of American cities." We disagree. This is a uniquely American town, with a diverse community and culture that epitomizes the "Don't Tread on Me" spirit. There's something for everyone here.

Best Place for a Special Date:
San Francisco is filled with reserve-two-months-ahead extraordinary restaurants, but these four-star temples of haute cuisine aren't necessarily romantic. Instead try a good neighborhood restaurant like Frascati. The menu is a mix of Italian and Spanish. Make sure to order a cheese plate either before or after your meal -- the selection is terrific -- and don't pass up the potato gnocchi. 1901 Hyde Street. 415/928-1406.

Best Place for the Morning After:
Revive your libido with a dozen sweetwater oysters at the Hog Island Oyster Company. This place is picnic-table casual, so no need to break out the fancy duds.

Best Place to Propose:
How 'bout in a balloon, high over the golden hills of Napa Valley. High In The Sky Napa Valley Aloft will plan the perfect hot air balloon trip. About $300 per person.

Best Place to Visit on Your Honeymoon:
Muir Woods, a few miles north of San Francisco, is a perfect place to spend a day communing with nature. Wander hand-in-hand along the paths under 1000-year old giant trees and breathe the piney air. To avoid crowds, go on a weekday.

Best Place to Make up:
Atone for whatever havoc you wreaked at the very civilized Top Of The Mark bar on the 19th floor of the InterContinental Mark Hopkins Hotel. It'll be hard for your honey to stay mad after enjoying the 360-degree vista of San Francisco and a selection from the famous "100 Martinis" menu.

ROME FOR LOVERS

Best Place for a Special Date:
The Imago restaurant, at the Hassler Hotel. Count on amazing views from this elegant and intimate restaurant perched on the top of the Spanish Steps, as well as great service and innovative twists on Roman classics -- Ravioli filled with Crab Meat in a Parsnip and Saffron Sauce, anyone?

Best Place For the Morning After:
The Pincio Gardens, on the western edge of the Villa Borghese, offers quiet corners, flowery hideaways, and beautiful views of the city. True sybarites (bless your hearts) should linger in bed and head to the park in the late afternoon to watch the sunset.

Best Place to Propose:
Just outside Rome is the Villa d'Este, a seductive garden with more than 500 very festive fountains. Perhaps you'll pop the question in the Grotto of Diana, which features scenes from classical mythology.

Best Place to Visit on Your Honeymoon:
Yes, you'll be surrounded by tourists and street peddlers at the Trevi Fountain but you should see it anyway. If you do toss a coin for good luck, remember to throw it over your shoulder with your back to the fountain, please. Go at night, when the fountain is illuminated.

Best Place to Make Up:
Thrust your hand into the maw of the Bocca della Verita (The Mouth of Truth), in the portico of the church of Santa Maria, and swear that you didn't do it or you will never do it again. Since the Middle Ages this sculpture has been used as a lie detector. If you're fibbing, the mouth will bite off your hand. If you don't draw back a bloody stump, your lover should trust your sincerity.

PARIS FOR LOVERS

Best Place for a Special Date:
The restaurant Pré Catelan transforms itself with the seasons -- in summer you dine in a flower garden, in winter inside before a crackling fire. The menu is an interesting combination of refined and rustic, reflecting the French urge to transform odd bits of meat -- pig ears -- into fine cuisine. Do try whatever risotto is on the menu. Desserts are divine. About $50 per person. Rue de Suresnes, 01-44-14-41-14.

Best Place For the Morning After:
The Luxembourg Gardens are a quiet green oasis on the Left Bank. The best thing to do here is wander around blithely sans any plan. But do visit the statue of the Greek god of lusty love, Pan, near the park's eastern gate.

Best Place to Propose:
The Basilica de Sacré-Coeur is the ideal place, specifically at the top of the steps. One warning: there are 234 steps to the summit, so if you don't want to gasp out your proposal, start the endurance training now. Failing that, there's always the Eiffel Tower -- pedestrian, oui, but très romantique.

Best Place to Visit on Your Honeymoon:
A sunset cruise down the Seine might sound tourist-tacky but it's actually quite lovely, especially in the evening. The Seine river cuts through the heart of Paris, and the glass-covered bateaux-mouches boats pass Notre Dame Cathedral, the Eiffel Tower, and scoot under dozens of old stone bridges. Half-a-dozen companies offer these tours, including this one.

Best Place to Make Up:
Le Vert Galant is a quiet park at the western end of Île de la Cité. The park was named for Henri IV, known for his many love affairs. It's a nice place to calm down and defuse whatever bombshell currently threatens your ro

HAWAII FOR LOVERS

Best Place for a Special Date:
The Pahu i'a restaurant at the Four Seasons Hualalai resort is situated just steps away from the ocean, surrounded by lush tropical greenery. Outstanding seafood and pastas are the main draw, and most menu items boast fresh fish and vegetables from local farmers. Desserts often include tropical fruit, such as the coconut flan with caramelized cane sugar.

Best Place To Propose: A perfect place is Waipi'o Valley.
This is Hawaii's Eden. The valley is nestled deep inside tall cliffs. Waterfalls and flowers surround you, and there are pools and streams and a black sand beach that curves around the coast. It's not the easiest place to access -- you need to take a four-wheeled vehicle down into the valley, or you make the trip on horseback or in a mule cart (let the guides know you're proposing and they'll help you choose a special spot).

Best Place to Visit on Your Honeymoon:
Volcanoes National Park is the home of Madame Pele, the ancient Hawaiian Goddess still revered today. Pele is a passionate embodiment of the life force -- what better place to commemorate your wedding vows? Head to the crater of Ki-lauea Volcano, leave a flower lei for Pele and ask her to bless your marriage. If you're feeling ambitious, hike the Ki-lauea Iki trail, a 4-mile loop that takes you down through volcanic rain forests.

Best Place to Make Up: Pu'uhonua O Honaunau
If someone broke a Kapu -- one of the many rules of Hawaiian society -- the penalty often was death. But if the kapu-breaker could make it to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau, the Place of Refuge, he or she would be forgiven. Pu'uhonua O Honaunau is now a 180-acre park, and a great place to make a fresh start.

CLASSIC PARIS RESTAURANTS

Astier.
The prix-fixe menu (there's no a la carte) at this tried-and-true restaurant must be one of the best values in town, with a lunch menu for €22.50 and a second lunch menu and dinner menu for €27. Among the deftly prepared seasonal dishes are tomato and goat cheese tart on curly endive, rabbit in mustard sauce with fresh tagliatelle, or an old-fashioned blanquette de veau (veal stew), and marquise au chocolat (chocolate mousse cake). This is a great place to come if you're feeling cheesy, since it's locally famous for having one of the best cheese plates in Paris---a giant wicker tray lands on the table and you help yourself. The lengthy, well-priced wine list is a connoisseur's dream. 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Republique, 01--43--57--16--35. Reservations essential, MC, V. Closed weekends, August, Christmas week, and Easter week.

Au Boeuf Couronne.
La Villette once housed the city's meat market, and this independent brasserie devoted to the finest beef (whether French or Irish) soldiers on as if nothing had changed. If you're beginning to tire of the Flo brasserie formula, it's worth the trek out to this far-flung neighborhood to sample its 11 takes on the beef theme (plus gargantuan marrow bone), or some very good fish and seafood dishes, such as scallops in season. You'll find bon vivants from all over Paris in the buzzy dining room, and there is a separate salon for cigar-smokers. 188 avenue Jean-Jaures, La Villette, 01--42--39--54--54. AE, DC, MC, V.

Aux Lyonnais.
For Alain Ducasse it's not enough to run three of the world's most expensive restaurants (in Paris, Monte Carlo, and New York) and an ever-expanding string of fusion bistros. He also has a passion for the old-fashioned bistro, so he has resurrected this 1890s gem by appointing a terrific young chef to oversee the short, frequently changing and reliably delicious menu of Lyonnais specialties (if you're counting pennies, opt for the limited-choice €28 set menu). Dandelion salad with crisp potatoes, bacon, and silky poached egg, watercress soup poured over parsleyed frogs' legs, and a sophisticated rendition of coq au vin show he is no bistro dilettante. The decor hews to tradition too; there's a zinc bar, an antique coffee machine, and original early 20th-century woodwork. 32 rue St-Marc, Opera/Grand Boulevards. 01--42--65--04. AE, MC, V. Closed Sat.--Mon.

Chez Dumonet--Josephine.
Theater people, politicians, and well-padded locals fill the moleskin banquettes of this popular bistro. Unlike most bistros, Josephine caters to the indecisive, since half-portions allow you to graze your way through the tempting menu. Try the very good boeuf bourguignon, roasted saddle of lamb with artichokes, anything with truffles in season, and perhaps with a mille-feuille or tarte fine (a crisp-crust fruit tart) for dessert. The wine list, like the food, is excellent but expensive. 117 rue du Cherche-Midi, St-Germain-des-Pres, 01--45--48--52--40. AE, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Chez Omar.
The fashion pack has largely moved on but the quality of the couscous has never dropped at this popular, no-reservations-needed address (arrive early to avoid an agonizing wait). Order your couscous with grilled skewered lamb, spicy merguez sausage, a lamb shank, or chicken---portions are generous---and wash it down with robust Algerian or Moroccan wine. Proprietor Omar Guerida speaks English and is famously friendly to all. The setting is a beautifully faded French bistro, complete with elbow-to-elbow seating, so be prepared to partake of your neighbors' conversation and Gauloises. 47 rue de Bretagne, Republique. 01--42--72--36--26. No credit cards. No lunch Sun.

Chez Rene.
Think there's nowhere left in Paris that serves boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin, and frogs' legs in a timeworn bistro setting---crisp white tablecloths, burgundy woodwork, waiters in black aprons? Then you haven't been to Chez Rene, whose specialty---aside from robust Burgundian classics---is reassuring continuity, as illustrated by the photos of the staff taken every decade that adorn the walls. Be sure to enjoy some of the Maconnais and Beaujolais wines with your meal. The prix-fixe menu costs €29 at lunch, €30 at dinner. 14 bd. St-Germain, Quartier Latin, 01--43--54--30--23, MC, V. Closed Sun., Mon., Christmas week, and Aug. No lunch Sat.

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne.
A rare Parisian bistro that refuses to change (and that includes its prices, thankfully). The Ambassade claims one of the city's great restaurant characters: the maitre d', with his handl